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Home > Products > Shingles, Cedar > Info - Cedar Shingles  > Making Cedar Shingle Corners

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Making Cedar Shingle Corners



It is actually simple to make attractive weather tight inside or outside corners with Shingles and Shingle Panels. Here are some tips and techniques from the professionals that you can use to turn the corner with your Shingle project.

Flashing
Use a flashing behind Western Red Cedar Shingles at corners to prevent damage to the felt underlayment.

Mitered Corners
Corners can be made with a miter. It takes some skill and practice to miter the shingles with a 45° angle cut, but by the end of the project you should be pretty good at it.

Laced Corners
A common practice is to lace or weave outside corners. This allows joining the Shingles at the corner with square cut butt joints. For the first course the left side Shingle butts against the right side Shingle. Reverse this for the second course and then alternate the courses left butt, right butt to the top of the corner. On large exposures you may need some nails along the edge of the corner butt joints to keep the overlapped corners tight. Be sure to use only corrosion resistant nails.

Corner Moulding
A pre-assembled “corner cover” constructed of Western Red Cedar boards can be made to fit over the corner. Cut a 1 x 4 and a 1 x 3 to the length of the corner top to bottom. Butt one long edge of the 1 x 3 to the 1 x 4 to form an L, Use construction adhesive and corrosion resistant nails or screws. Then attach the preassembled corner over the Shingles.

Or, the pre-assembled corner could be installed first and the Cedar Shingles butted against it.

Inside corners can be made by butting the Shingles against a square strip of Western Red Cedar. Some of the strip should protrude past the Shingles so be sure to use one thick enough. 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” will be okay for Shingles, but Panels are thicker due to their plywood backing and a 2” x 2” strip would be better.

Inside corners can be formed by butting one side to the other in alternating courses similar to the lacing technique described for outside corners. It is a good idea to complete one course on each adjacent wall at a time and to work outward from the inside corner


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