|AZEK® Brand PVC|
|Beadboard & V-Groove|
| Caps, Door & Window|
|Casings, Door & Window|
|Corner Guards (Beads)|
|Deck Boards, Etc|
|Entry & Window Systems|
|Finials & Drops|
|Porches - START HERE!|
|Pressure Treated Products|
|Spindles (and Balusters)|
|Spires, Roof |
|Stair Parts, Interior |
|The Bargain Room!|
|More . . .|
|Shipping & Returns|
|How To Information|
< Previous Page
Cut Cedar Shingle Panel Installation
Shakertown Fancy Cut Shingle Panels from Vintage Woodworks may be applied:
• Over solid nailable sheathing as approved by local building codes.
• Over insulative board
• Over spaced sheathing, 1"x4" or 1"x6"
The Fancy Cut panels are designed so a 5-inch exposure will result when the lower edge of the plywood backing is set on the top edge of the next lower course. When mixing Fancy Cut panel patterns the exposures may vary. Fancy Cut panels will also fit seamlessly with standard Shakertown panels.
Coverage - Shingle Panels
Each Panel is 96" long and they are shipped six panels per bundle. A bundle of Panels will cover 20 sq. ft.
A timesaving step is to stain all siding before installation (we recommend a semi-transparent, oil-based stain). The best way to apply the stain is with a pad applicator. Be sure to stain all four edges of each panel. Drying time is approximately five hours, depending on the stain, temperature and humidity. Panels can also be stained before application by a professional machine prefinisher. See Staining and Finishing Cedar Shingles for more information on this subject.
Shakertown Fancy Cut panels are blind nailed 1-1/2" from the top edge of each panel. The first course is face nailed approximately 4" down from the top edge.
Determine prior to laying out your framing which corner treatment is to be used. Fancy Cut panels may be mitered at the corners or corner boards may be used. See Making Cedar Shingle Corners for details.
After framing is completed, Fancy Cut panels should be installed over a suitable weather-resistive barrier, such as type 15 felt or better, in accordance with local code requirements. Use a two inch head lap and six inch end lap when fastening barrier.
Use a two-inch head lap and six-inch end lap when fastening barrier.
Proper flashing and caulking are essential. Keep the bottom edge of panels a minimum 1/4" above flashing ledge. At roof junctures, siding should be a minimum 1" above roofing material. Refer to your local building code for stricter guidelines, and see our information page on Cedar Shingle Flashing for more information and details.
Establish a level line around building. Use a transit, water level or level line and string. Mark the level line about four feet off the ground or at any convenient height. Then simply measure down from the level line to position the first siding course. Shakertown recommends furring out the bottom course of siding with 1/2" x 1" wood (furring) strips. This allows for canting of the first course of siding. Using the Level Line to establish the Furring Strips will assure a level first course. Keep siding at least 6" from the ground.
Align panel ends with corner stud or corner board. Be sure that the corner is plumb in both directions. Install the first course of siding. The bottom of each subsequent panel sits on top of the previous panel so each course goes up easily, maintaining a consistent exposure. Allow 1/16" spacing at end joints to allow for expansion. Allow 1/8" spacing where panels butt against windows and doors, caulk these joints with non-hardening caulking compound.
Vintage Woodworks recommends using a corrosion resistant (hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel) 1-3/4" roofing nail for blind nailing. Nails should always be of sufficient length to penetrate the studs a minimum 3/4". Special applications or high wind loads may require optional fasteners. A pneumatic nail gun will speed up application, but when power nailing care should be taken to set the head flush with the Shingle. Sinking the heads into the Shingles can affect the long-term performance of the siding. Staples are not recommended.
Position nails 1-1/2" from the top edge of the panel. The first course though must be face nailed approximately 4" from the top edge of the panel. Always put one nail 1/2" from the ends of each panel. All other nails should be driven into studs. If the panel ends miss a stud, place three nails approximately 1" apart at the panel end. Nail each shingle course of panel from one end to the other, maximum 24" on center. Never nail from both ends toward the middle. Do not force panels into place.
Nail up the first (bottom most) course of siding, taking care that this first course is perfectly straight and level. Each course of panels will automatically align when laid up. Level should be checked occasionally. Panel end joints should be offset 16 or 24 inches (or one stud interval) from previous courses.
When it comes time to cut a panel, use a portable circular saw and place the panel face down to prevent splintering. Make sure the cut is square. You may cut several panels at once to speed application.
Chances are you'll probably have to rip the last siding course to fit. This top course will have to be face nailed, or a trim board can be attached to cover the siding nails.
Shakertown Shingle Panels may be applied to slight curves over solid nailable sheathing if each shingle on the panel is nailed with two fasteners 3/4" from each edge, 3/4" to 1" from the top.
Where codes permit, Shingle Panels may be applied to mansard-style roofs of at least 20/12 pitch (60°) over ASTM Type 30 building paper where codes permit.
Return to previous page